Pop culture, alongside the ever-transforming media landscape, has shaped and expanded fashion trends throughout history. As media and public sentiment evolve, Stockton students and staff reflect on the broader societal debate of whether pop culture has gone too far in promoting self-expression through revealing styles and the acceptance of non-conforming gender expression.

“Pop culture is the driving force of the way young people express themselves, especially through clothing and appearance. Clothing is the most distinct way in which culture is expressed,” said Emily Van Duyne, Associate Professor of Writing and First-year studies and Chair of Women, Gender, and Sexuality studies.

“I believe that pop culture both shapes and reflects culture. It works in a symbiosis,” relayed Christina Morus, Associate Professor of Communications. “Some people say they’re not influenced by pop culture at all. But then I always say, look around you. Everyone’s dressed, right? We all understand we have to be dressed. We all got the memo that there’s an acceptable range of expression.”

Fashion has a trickle-down effect that influences everyone. As Meryl Streep’s character, Miranda, explains in “The Devil Wears Prada,” fashion trends begin at the high-end and gradually filter down to mass-market retailers and everyday clothing. Even those who reject fashion are still influenced by the decisions made by designers, editors, and industry leaders. “This is an anti-capitalist message. It’s telling you that you may think you chose this, and in fact, it was chosen for you,” explained Van Duyne.

The advent of mass media ushered in an influx of trending hairstyles, makeup, facial hair, fashion, and overall style. As the definition of the ideal beauty standard evolves, so do the products sold to consumers. “Media is the message,” conveyed Toby Rosenthal, a Communication Studies teaching specialist. “We may see something in media which seems extreme and then it becomes normalized. It’s a whole margin to center. The ‘Rocky Horror Picture Show’ is a classic example of moving from the margin to center.”

The ever-evolving beauty standard set by media creates pressure to achieve an unattainable and unrealistic ideal, often leading to unhealthy and unsustainable expectations.

“The beauty standard exists to uphold a racist, capitalist system. This idea that you can radicalize the beauty standard and make it more inclusive, it’s just not true. It’s not possible. Beauty is capital and capital values whiteness above all things. Until you understand that, you’re gonna keep falling prey to this,” articulated Van Duyne.

There is often excessive pushback against what is accepted within the standards of fashion. What was accepted in one decade may not be in another, highlighting the existence of a regression in morality. “If you look at fashion in the mid to late 60s, women are wearing micro mini skirts. The fabric is six inches long. They’re wearing go-go boots with them, and bikini tops. Nudity was at the height of its fashion in the 60s and 70s. I think the changing morality we see now is a way to control and gender-police particular kinds of bodies,” expressed Van Duyne.

Society has a tendency to favor thin, white women within fashion, which aligns with an erogenous logic. “When you see heavier women, women of color, trans women or cis men who want to dress more revealing or more feminine coded, suddenly, the more morality-police come out in droves and start to complain about how this is bad and amoral,” stated Van Duyne.

Not only are individuals’ fashion choices ridiculed and judged, but there is also the added pressure of the appropriateness of where certain items are worn. “There’s a time and a place for everything. Express yourself, but I’d love to see it right,” divulged Morus. “Fashion and the way we present ourselves, when done consciously, have power. When we understand that looking a certain way for a particular situation holds meaning, I think there’s real power in that. And maybe that’s a part of fashion and popular culture that’s sort of mistaken for frivolity.”

Wearing what you want is empowering. People form an impression of your personality based on your makeup, appearance, and clothing. “Everyone knows that there’s a time and a place. But something that genuinely makes my blood boil is that people don’t understand that everyone has their own perspective,” explained Ava Klinger, president of the Public Relations Student Society of America (PRSSA).

One may misjudge an environment in which they believe they are safe to wear particular clothing and face the consequences. Rosenthal discussed her experience interviewing for a docu-style TV job, where she dressed her best in a J.Crew suit with pearls to accessorize. After the interview, she learned she didn’t get the job and discovered the interviewer was allegedly intimidated by her outfit choice, which led to her being denied the position. Now, Rosenthal stands as an outlier in offering career-related advice, suggesting students dress for the job they are applying for and carefully assess the circumstances to the best of their ability.

There are numerous examples of students on campus who express themselves fully and creatively. “But I do think we’ve entered an era of backlash against that, and I find it really horrible and terrifying,” shared Van Duyne. “I have high hopes that Stockton will not fall prey to that kind of nonsense, and that we won’t police the way that our students dress or police their gender expression. I find that a terrifying prospect, but I also don’t have a lot of faith in any person in a position of authoritarian power.”

Amid harsh opinions and societal pressures to conform, many feel restricted in their self-expression. However, some use these critiques to their advantage, reclaiming them and transforming them into self-empowerment. “At the end of the day, it always gets tied down to everyone looking normal, not wanting to stand out. People are always worried about standing out,” explained Klinger. “Why is that a bad thing? It’s not a bad thing to have self expression.”

Stockton University hosts several events that provide safe spaces for clothing and fashion expression. Each year, the university holds the Transcendence Clothing Swap in October. The event allows the campus community to donate clothing in exchange for items that better fit their gender identity. The event was founded in 2017 by Laura Shaw, Assistant Director of Counseling and Psychological Services.

“If there are people on this campus who feel unsafe in any way because of their gender expression and if it’s not brought up by students to the President of the university, I certainly will,” expressed Morus. “The university said at our State of the University Address that we are staying the course [in regards to DEI Executive Orders]. We are supporting our people. We are still non-discriminatory. Nothing is changing in the way that we handle things. So if there are people who are feeling increasingly unsafe, we need to figure out who it is that needs to be made aware so that we can address it.”